Sunday, November 4, 2012

Rig shots

So this time around, i've decided to switch things up a bit and show you guys how i've been doing my rig shots up until now. Some people might do it differently, but for now, this is how i do it. For the most part, majority of the work comes into planning and shooting rather than editing itself. This shot is more than a year old but it'll demonstrate the basics of what a rig shot takes.Take note that this was actually taken from my first try with the rig since i had just got it that very summer. Surprisingly.. i was actually able to produce something photo worthy haha.. but yeah, let's begin.


Final, edited version

Execution is key. Remember that.. cause you screw up while shooting and realize post-shoot, you're toast. The key items to have before attempting a rig shot is...

- DSLR + remote trigger (self-timer works just as well)
- wide angle lens + ND filter
- boom (can vary in material)
- suction cups x 2
- clamps x 3
- manfrotto magic arm

Besides the camera gear itself, you should take into account what kind of suction cups/clamps/boom you're going to use. I recommend the "Filmtools 6" suction cups" along with swivel pin extenders for added height to raise the boom. For the boom itself, i highly recommend something lightweight with appropriate length. For the best case scenario, i recommend carbon fibre rods. Let's be honest though, who has the money to blow on carbon fibre rods? Aluminum is good in terms of strength, easy, cheap... but can weight a ton of bricks and make your entire rig bend like crazy at the joints. The most ghetto way, the way i did it (of course), was to use a painter's pole. This might look and sound like an ingenious solution, but my god, it's AWFUL. Painter's poles are extendable at various lengths and easy to transport, but they bend easily, and i mean.. EASILY. They also resonate like there's no tomorrow, so only resort to this if budget is super tight.


Featuring, the ghetto painter's pole

The setup is actually easier than it looks. Getting it right though.. and framing your shot right is another thing.

STEP 1 - CLEAN + INSPECT

Yeah, sounds stupid. You'd be surprised by the fact that a lot of people neglect this step.. i've done it once or twice to be quite honest. ANY dust underneath the suction cups WILL SCRATCH and CAN cause you to LOSE SUCTION. Look for anything that a suction cup might ruin, this applies to cracks and 3M wrap. DO NOT EVER, put it on a crack... you know what'll happen. DO NOT EVER, put it on 3M wrap... you're going to get coaster marks that look like piss rings. At the end of the day, you don't want to be paying the owner for making piss rings on his expensive 3M wrap.

STEP 2 - SET UP

Setup the rig by placing the suction cups onto the car. Areas you want to avoid are aluminum/carbon fibre panels, or anything material that's thin or can bend easily. Areas that are susceptible to major distortion due to the cups are the hood and roof, especially if they're place in the middle of those panels. Best places (if you have to use the body) are edges of panels, along with windows and glass. Always take into account panel rigidity, you don't want to take off the rig and have it pop out like a sore thumb.

Now that you've got the cups in place, it's time to place the boom on and the camera. Get a buddy or two to help you put on the boom and clamp it down using the clamps. Make sure it's tight as can be, or else say good bye to your camera a minute or two later. Next, attach the magic arm and your camera. Simple enough.


Okay... I went against my own advice. I know better now!

STEP 3 - EXECUTION

Here's the cool part. Slap on the wide angle, set the camera to self-timer and fire away. While the shutter is open and collecting light, the car has to move. Put the car into neutral with the wheel turned (if you so desire) and then let the car roll. You can either do this two ways.. either push the car from behind or let gravity do it for you! In terms of direction, all the car has to do is move.. doesn't matter which direction, backwards or forwards; to the camera it's all the same. If you're having trouble with the ambient light being too bright you can put on an ND filter to cut down the light. Make sure that you're not in the frame and that the boom doesn't wobble too much. Sure, it's scary at first but you get used to it. Remember that when the car is moving to NOT touch the wheel. The wheel will lock and you're screwed, so get the driver to hover the brake in case shit goes down (somehow). If you fancy lights/fogs being on as well, go for it. Remember to shoot static and moving shots. Shoot as much as you can so you can piece all the good parts together later in photoshop.


What happens when your ghetto boom wobbles like an earthquake just hit


What happens when you get'r right!

Cool right? With more and more practice you'll get the hang of the whole process. You'll learn how to manage the equipment, time, and post-processing. Experiment with angles and your composition.

Like how i slapped on my watermarks? Yeah. Awesome placement eh?
Too complicated? Just get virtual studio and throw all your rig equipment away LOL.

Anyways, i'll be posting a sample edit of the same shot soon so keep your eyes peeled for that. In the meantime, have fun!